It’s a spicy, fruity sauce with a base of olive-oil mayonnaise dressing. The Matouk’s Calypso Sauce is available at some Whole Foods Market locations, Central Market or Fiesta stores.

So two chefs and a restaurant critic walk into a ramen-ya, whose counter was already cluttered with bottles: Tabasco, Sriracha, Cholula, Tapatio, Sambal Olek, Matouk’s Calypso Sauce from ...