That is, until I arrive at Chablé’s spa and, without introduction, Yumana takes of my sunglasses, raises my arms to my sides, and gently tells me to close my eyes. “I see orange and yellow ...

While its waters are from pure Himalayan glaciers, by the time it reaches the capital Delhi the Yumana is a 'dead' river which passes millions of tons of chemical waste, sewage and industrial ...