The first catch of the afternoon was a white catfish—saved by its wider head and a few less anal fin rays, and tossed back into the water. The blue catfish came next—two in quick succession.

Typically, firm white fish such as catfish, cod, or tilapia is used, and it is marinated in a flavorful blend of shallots, galangal, turmeric, garlic, shrimp paste, fish sauce, and oil.