AFTER tucking into the smoked salmon, pesto and cream cheese brioche hand­ed to me by a smiling attendant, I reclined in my seat while the landscape flashed by. It might sound like the first-class ...

It has been reborn as a cultural space and shopping hub near the train station. At lunchtime, I embark on my final leg towards Gdansk. As a board the train, a conductor I met the day before gives ...