Wipe out soup pot and place over moderate heat. Add bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 12 minutes. Add onions, carrots, celery, 2 teaspoons salt, cayenne, and bay leaf.

Rhode Island clam chowder is a clear-broth chowder made with hard-shell clams, known as quahogs, fresh herbs and potatoes. (Anne Cusack/Los Angeles Times via Getty Images) They didn’t have cows.